Gary and I have been fortunate enough to do some traveling throughout the years, but the most harrowing experience I have ever encountered was visiting the famous Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo.

For a little history, the Tsukiji Fish Market is the largest fish market in Asia. 90 percent of the fish eaten in Tokyo passes through this market where giant bluefin tuna, smaller yellowfin, and “bigeyes” are flown in fresh from all over the world. At 5:00 a.m. the bell is rung by the auctioneer to start the fish auction at the Tokyo Chuo Oroshiuri Ichiba.

Our day, of course, started early as we took the subway out to the market. After leaving the subway and while walking towards the market, we ran across some Texan businessmen and struck up a conversation. After confirming we were heading in the right direction, we bade our goodbyes, but as we continued on our journey, from behind us we heard the Texans yell “Godspeed.” What could they possibly mean?

The wholesale market consists of some 1,200 stalls that sell every sort of fish and crustacean imaginable, most of them still jumping or crawling. As the enormous amount of fish are poured from one container to another, water cascades onto the floor and into the shoes of the unwary tourist. Also, the market is kept spotlessly clean which means running water hoses…thus, very wet and slippery conditions akin to walking across ice while wearing your brand new patent leather shoes.

Gary, a/k/a Mr. Photographer never to miss a perfect photo op, was in his glory snapping images of this spectacular event while I was like a newborn fawn trying to keep my legs under me for fear I’d fall with who knows what live creature from the ocean crawling over me, that I would later recognize on the dinner table that evening. The stalls were packed tightly together with narrow aisles where buyers for the city’s restaurants and shops hustle about, with extremely dangerous forklifts speeding dangerously in all directions, mopeds zipping in and out, and what looked to the untrained eye to be total chaos. Maybe it’s my overactive imagination, but I had the distinct impression the forklift operators got extra points for either (1) running down a tourist or (2) making said tourist leap out of the way and fall face down into the eels. Hey, I can’t blame them. These people are in the fish business and not running a tourist attraction, and this is their busiest time of day. Even if you manage to stay on your feet and dodge the forklifts, there still was the distinct possibility of getting lost in this maze of octopus, eel, tuna, squid, numerous unidentifiable creatures, and never to be seen or heard from again (hold your applause). The folk song Charlie on the MTA kept running through my head.

To put this experience in perspective, I have traveled many times to Africa and, being adventurous, did whitewater rafting down the Zambezi River, canoeing through hippos and crocs, walking safaris, trekking in Zaire (now the Democratic Republic of Congo) through the Virunga Mountains to see mountain gorillas and actually had a 500+ pound silverback mountain gorilla charge (no, not a mock charge), where I submissively crouched on the ground and felt his breath (definitely in need of a breath mint) on my neck, yet none of those experiences was as harrowing as visiting the Tsukiji Fish Market.

But having told my tale, I must say that Japan, including the northern island of Hokkaido, is an extremely interesting and enjoyable place, one not to be missed. And while in Tokyo be sure to put the Tsukiji Fish Market on your “must see” list…you only live once...Godspeed!

Nancy R.